A cautious, science-led guide to cica, madecassoside, asiaticoside and soothing skincare claims.

QUICK ANSWER Centella asiatica is a botanical whose triterpenes include madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid. Laboratory, wound-healing and small clinical studies support anti-inflammatory and repair-related potential, but ordinary cica cosmetics vary widely and should not be described as treating eczema, acne or wounds.

Evidence rating	Limited-to-moderate; strongest in mechanistic and wound-related research
Best suited to	Sensitive-feeling, mildly irritated or redness-prone skin seeking a soothing supporting formula
Main limitation	Extracts are not standardised across products, and much evidence does not directly test retail facial skincare
Last reviewed	30 July 2026

Independent educational content. No product is recommended solely because it contains a fashionable ingredient.

What is centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica, also called gotu kola, is a plant used in traditional medicine and modern skincare. “Cica” is a popular cosmetic shorthand rather than a single standardised ingredient. Products may contain whole extracts, centella water or isolated triterpenes such as madecassoside and asiaticoside. [1]

Two products labelled cica can be chemically very different. The extraction method, solvent, concentration and standardisation of active compounds affect what reaches the skin. The word “cica” on the front label is therefore less useful than the full ingredient list and quality of the complete formula.

Centella should be positioned as a soothing or barrier-supporting cosmetic ingredient, not as a cure for inflammatory skin disease.

How it may affect the skin

Centella triterpenes have been studied for effects on inflammatory signalling, antioxidant pathways, fibroblast activity and extracellular-matrix processes. Much of this evidence is preclinical, derived from wound models or based on extracts not identical to retail skincare. [1,2]

A systematic review of wound-healing research found potential benefit but also heterogeneity in preparations and study quality. This supports cautious interest, not blanket claims that every cica serum heals damaged skin. [2]

In a gentle moisturiser, the perceived soothing effect may come from the combination of centella with panthenol, glycerin, ceramides and the absence of irritants.

What the evidence supports - and what it does not

Claim	Evidence assessment	Practical interpretation
Soothing and redness appearance	Plausible; limited clinical evidence	May help comfort mildly stressed skin when the complete formula is gentle.
Barrier support	Supportive / indirect	Often works best alongside humectants and barrier lipids.
Wound healing	Research exists, but not a claim for ordinary cosmetics	Do not apply non-sterile cosmetic products to open wounds.
Acne treatment	Insufficient alone	May soothe, but does not replace established acne treatments.
Scar removal	Not established for retail cosmetics	No cream can guarantee removal of established scars.

Who may find it useful

Sensitive-feeling skin that tolerates botanical extracts.
Skin recovering from over-cleansing or mild active-related irritation.
Users wanting a soothing serum or moisturiser without exfoliation.
Combination or oily skin when cica is delivered in a light, fragrance-free base.

Who should be cautious

Botanical ingredients can cause allergic contact dermatitis; “natural” does not mean reaction-free.
Fragrance, essential oils or alcohol in a cica product may undermine its soothing positioning.
Do not apply ordinary cica cosmetics to broken, infected or weeping skin.
Persistent redness may represent rosacea, dermatitis or another condition requiring assessment.

How to use it in a routine

When	Recommended placement	How to introduce it
Morning	Use after cleansing, before moisturiser and sunscreen	A light cica serum or lotion can be used daily if tolerated.
Evening	Use after cleansing and before/within moisturiser	Helpful on non-exfoliation nights or as part of a simplified routine.
Barrier reset	Choose one fragrance-free cica moisturiser rather than several overlapping products	Stop acids and scrubs temporarily if the skin burns or peels.

Ingredient pairing guide

Usually compatible	Use thoughtfully or seek advice
• Panthenol and allantoin<br>• Ceramides and cholesterol<br>• Hyaluronic acid and glycerin<br>• Niacinamide at a moderate level<br>• PDRN formulas designed primarily for soothing hydration	• Essential oils or fragrance in “calming” formulas<br>• Several botanical extracts if allergy-prone<br>• Strong acids or retinoids during an active irritation episode

How to choose a well-formulated product

Look for centella extract or named triterpenes in a fragrance-free base.
Do not assume a very high extract percentage is necessary or superior.
Choose packaging that protects a watery botanical formula from repeated contamination.
Prefer brands that publish current ingredient lists and do not make medical claims.
For allergy-prone skin, patch-test for seven to ten days before regular facial use.

Common myths and mistakes

Myth: Cica cannot irritate because it is natural.

Reality: Any botanical can cause irritant or allergic reactions in susceptible users.

Myth: Cica heals acne scars.

Reality: There is not enough evidence that a retail cica cosmetic removes established acne scars.

Myth: More centella extract always means more soothing.

Reality: Extract composition, solvent, standardisation and the rest of the formula all matter.

Myth: All cica products contain madecassoside.

Reality: Some use whole centella extracts; others use isolated compounds. Check the ingredient list.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between centella and madecassoside?

Centella is the plant or plant extract; madecassoside is one of its characteristic triterpene compounds.

Can cica be used with retinol?

Yes, a gentle cica moisturiser may support comfort around retinoid use, although it cannot eliminate irritation.

Is cica suitable for acne-prone skin?

It can be, but assess the whole product. Rich oils or occlusives may be unsuitable for some acne-prone users.

Can I use cica every day?

Yes if the formula is tolerated. Stop if itching, swelling or persistent redness develops.

Evidence sources

1. Park KS. Pharmacological Effects of Centella asiatica on Skin Diseases. 2021. Open source

2. Arribas-Lopez E, et al. A Systematic Review of Centella asiatica on Wound Healing. 2022. Open source

3. Sherban A, Wang JV. Role of Cica in Skincare Formulations. Skinmed. 2022. Open source

4. Bylka W, et al. Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview. 2014. Open source

Editorial and medical disclaimer This guide is educational and is not a diagnosis or individual medical advice. Cosmetic ingredients cannot replace appropriate assessment or treatment for persistent acne, dermatitis, infection, sudden pigment change or another skin condition. Introduce one new product at a time, follow the product directions, and stop if significant irritation develops. Seek professional advice for severe, painful, scarring, rapidly changing or treatment-resistant symptoms.

Centella Asiatica (Cica)