Niacinamide

tone, oiliness, concentrations, combinations and realistic expectations.

QUICK ANSWER Niacinamide is a well-tolerated form of vitamin B3 used in moisturisers, serums and toners. Clinical and mechanistic evidence supports benefits for barrier function, uneven-looking tone, redness and some signs of ageing, particularly in well-formulated products around 2-5%. Higher percentages are not automatically more effective and may be more irritating.

Independent educational content. No product is recommended solely because it contains a fashionable ingredient.

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is the amide form of vitamin B3. In skin cells it contributes to the production of NAD and NADP, cofactors involved in cellular energy, antioxidant defence and repair processes. It is water-soluble and is widely used in leave-on skincare because it is generally stable and compatible with many formula types. [1]

Niacinamide is not the same as niacin, the form associated with flushing when taken or used inappropriately. Cosmetic niacinamide is usually selected because it can support multiple skin functions without the irritation profile of stronger acids or retinoids.

Benefits depend on the concentration, vehicle and the rest of the formula. A balanced 4-5% product may outperform a poorly formulated 10-20% serum, especially for sensitive skin.

How it may affect the skin

Niacinamide may increase synthesis of epidermal lipids and proteins involved in barrier function, reduce transfer of pigment-containing melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, and modulate inflammatory and oxidative pathways. [1,2]

Clinical studies have reported improvements in hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, texture and fine lines with regular topical use. Several studies used approximately 4-5% niacinamide, and some combined it with other ingredients, so benefits should not be attributed to concentration alone. [2,3]

For oily skin, niacinamide may help improve the appearance of shine or sebum balance in some users, but it is not a guaranteed treatment for acne and does not replace retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or other evidence-based acne options when these are clinically indicated.

What the evidence supports - and what it does not

Who may find it useful

• Combination or oily skin seeking a multi-purpose, non-exfoliating active.

• Uneven-looking tone and post-blemish marks, always paired with sunscreen.

• Dry or sensitive skin when included at a moderate level in a barrier-supporting moisturiser.

• Beginners who want one versatile active rather than several strong products.

Who should be cautious

• High-percentage serums may sting, flush or irritate even though niacinamide is generally well tolerated.

• Do not assume that 10-20% is necessary; 2-5% has meaningful clinical precedent.

• A reaction may come from the formula’s solvents, fragrance or preservatives rather than niacinamide itself.

• Persistent facial flushing, burning or rash requires stopping the product and considering professional assessment.

How to use it in a routine

Ingredient pairing guide

How to choose a well-formulated product

1. For most users, begin around 2-5%; judge tolerance and results before considering a higher level.

2. Choose a complete formula suited to your skin type - a light serum for oilier skin or a moisturiser for dry skin.

3. Look for opaque or air-limiting packaging and a current ingredient list.

4. Avoid buying solely on “pore shrinking” or instant brightening claims.

5. Use daily sunscreen if pigmentation is the main concern.

Common myths and mistakes

Myth: Niacinamide and vitamin C can never be used together.

Reality: Modern, well-formulated products can usually be combined. The main issue is individual irritation, not an automatic chemical incompatibility.

Myth: Ten per cent is the minimum effective concentration.

Reality: Clinical evidence exists at lower concentrations, including around 2-5%. More is not necessarily better.

Myth: Niacinamide permanently closes pores.

Reality: Pores do not open and close like doors. Reduced oiliness and smoother texture may make them look less noticeable.

Myth: Niacinamide cures acne.

Reality: It may support an acne routine, but persistent inflammatory or scarring acne needs evidence-based treatment and sometimes medical assessment.

Frequently asked questions

Can niacinamide be used every day?

Yes, many people use it daily. Start once daily or every other day if sensitive, then increase according to tolerance.

Is niacinamide suitable for dry skin?

Yes, especially within a moisturiser containing humectants and barrier lipids. A drying, solvent-heavy serum may be less suitable.

How long before niacinamide improves pigmentation?

Studies generally assess regular use over weeks rather than days. Daily sunscreen is essential because ongoing ultraviolet and visible-light exposure can undermine progress.

Why does niacinamide make my skin sting?

The percentage may be unnecessarily high, the barrier may already be impaired, or another ingredient may be responsible. Stop and simplify the routine if irritation persists.

Can niacinamide be used with PDRN?

Yes. No harmful interaction is known, and the two are often sold together: more than half of the PDRN products in our catalogue also list niacinamide in their ingredients, including the Medicube Salmon DNA PDRN Pink Peptide Serum, the COSRX 5 PDRN B5 Vital Soothing Toner and the VT Cosmetics PDRN 100 Essence. Evidence for the pairing is limited: the only studies we found tested a mixture of PDRN, niacinamide and vitamin C on animal skin exposed to UV-B light, not on people [5, 6]. See our PDRN ingredient page for what PDRN is.

My PDRN product already contains niacinamide. Do I need a separate niacinamide serum?

Not necessarily. UK ingredient lists name ingredients above 1% in descending order of weight [7], so niacinamide near the top of the list suggests a meaningful amount, but most brands do not state the percentage. Adding a separate niacinamide serum raises the total you apply, and a higher percentage can make stinging or flushing more likely without a clear extra benefit. If you want both, introduce the second product slowly and stop if your skin feels warm or irritated.

Evidence sources

1. Camillo L, et al. Nicotinamide: A Multifaceted Molecule in Skin Health and Beyond. Medicina. 2025. Open source

2. Bissett DL, et al. Topical niacinamide reduces signs of ageing facial skin. 2008. Open source

3. Hakozaki T, et al. Niacinamide reduces cutaneous pigmentation and melanosome transfer. 2002. Open source

4. Boo YC. Mechanistic basis and clinical evidence for nicotinamide in skin ageing and pigmentation. 2021. Open source

5. Kim HM, et al. A mixture of topical forms of polydeoxyribonucleotide, vitamin C, and niacinamide attenuated skin pigmentation and increased skin elasticity by modulating nuclear factor erythroid 2-like 2. Molecules. 2022. Animal study. Open source

6. Park HJ, et al. The combination of niacinamide, vitamin C, and PDRN mitigates melanogenesis by modulating nicotinamide nucleotide transhydrogenase. Molecules. 2022. Animal and cell study. Open source

7. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Article 19 (as retained in UK law). Open source

Editorial and medical disclaimer This guide is educational and is not a diagnosis or individual medical advice. Cosmetic ingredients cannot replace appropriate assessment or treatment for persistent acne, dermatitis, infection, sudden pigment change or another skin condition. Introduce one new product at a time, follow the product directions, and stop if significant irritation develops. Seek professional advice for severe, painful, scarring, rapidly changing or treatment-resistant symptoms.